Oak has been at the heart of crafting Rioja wines since the early 18th Century, and there’s no mistaking the complex, woody characters of Riojas aged over several years in American oak barrels. Whilst many winemakers in Rioja are committed to producing these traditionally oaked, velvety Riojas, there are also others who are choosing to adapt and evolve traditional winemaking techniques. A new wave of increasingly fruit-driven wines are being produced in the region, attracting new Rioja enthusiasts and prompting loyal fans to re-think Rioja wines.

Though there are several elements in the winemaking process that have a key role to play in the evolution and flavour profiles of these new-wave Riojas, such as a slower fermentation, longer maceration and the effects of global warming, it is arguably the use of oak that has the biggest influence on flavour. Traditional Riojas are aged over several years in American oak barrels. American oak has larger grains than French, meaning that the wine leeches out more potent notes of vanilla and coconut. They are also traditionally aged for much longer and the extra time in the barrel also allows oxygen to creep in, creating nutty notes. These old school Riojas tend to be paler in colour, higher in acidity, with red fruit and aromas of spice and tobacco.

A growing number of producers are instead using new French barrels for much shorter lengths of time to prevent the development of any oxidative character, and the tighter grained French barrels are more likely to contribute subtler touches of smoke, clove, toast and vanilla. These ‘modern’ Riojas are often fuller bodied than their traditional counterparts, with darker fruit aromas, and a higher alcohol content.

So does this mean that when it comes down to choosing Rioja, it’s always a case of old versus new, American oak versus French oak? Certainly not – a commitment to producing high quality wines and keeping in touch with modern wine drinkers’ tastes, means that winemakers in Rioja are experimenting with combining and complementing techniques of old and new. A combination of French and American oak barrels is not uncommon, and some producers have recently been experimenting with the use of Russian and other Eastern European oaks.

So whether you are a die-hard traditionalist, or prefer the fruit driven flavours reminiscent of New World wines, there’s a Rioja for you.